The belt wraps the drum and the motor pulley. It breaks with age or when the drum is overloaded, and the symptom is a motor that runs with a drum that does not turn.
Dryer Repair
Dryer Repair: Why Your Dryer Won't Heat or Dry
Diagnose a dryer that won't heat, takes multiple cycles, squeals or won't start. Test the vent, thermal fuse, element, igniter and belt before buying parts.
A dryer that tumbles but leaves clothes damp is almost always an airflow or heat problem, not a dead machine. Lint-clogged vents, a blown thermal fuse, a failed heating element or a weak gas igniter account for most no-heat calls, and each one is testable with a multimeter before you spend money on parts.
When the drum itself stops turning or starts thumping, the fault moves to the drive side: belt, idler pulley, drum rollers or the motor. Gas dryers add an ignition circuit, and ventless condenser models add a heat exchanger that needs cleaning. Work through airflow first, then heat, then drive — that order finds the real cause fastest and avoids replacing parts that were never broken.
Symptoms this guide covers
- Clothes are still damp after a full cycle
- Drum turns but there is no heat
- Drum does not turn at all
- Thumping, squealing or scraping while running
- Dryer stops mid-cycle or will not start
- Burning smell or scorched lint
Test order before you replace anything
- Clean the lint filter and inspect the full vent run — a clogged duct is the most common cause of long dry times and overheating
- Test the thermal fuse and door switch for continuity before replacing the heating circuit
- On electric dryers, check the heating element for continuity and look for a broken coil; on gas dryers, inspect the igniter and flame sensor
- Remove the drum belt tension and spin the drum by hand — rough or noisy rotation points to rollers or the idler pulley
- Confirm the blower wheel is intact and the exterior vent flap opens when the dryer runs
Parts involved in dryer repair
The idler keeps tension on the belt. A worn pulley bearing produces a chirp or squeal that changes with drum speed, and a seized pulley will shred a new belt.
The thermal fuse is a one-shot safety device on the exhaust path. It opens when the dryer overheats, which is why replacing it without clearing the lint blockage leads to a repeat failure.
Electric dryer elements are coiled resistance wire in a metal frame. They break with age or heat cycling, and a broken coil is often visible as a gap or a blistered section.
The igniter is a ceramic element that glows to light the gas burner. It is fragile, and a cracked igniter will glow weakly or not at all while the dryer tumbles without heat.
The blower moves air through the drum and out the vent. A cracked hub or stripped center lets the wheel spin on the shaft, so the dryer runs quietly but airflow drops and clothes stay damp.
The control board runs the cycle and switches the loads. It is the most over-diagnosed part in appliance repair: failed elements, sensors, switches and pumps cause most 'board' symptoms.
Rigid or semi-rigid duct, clamps and an exterior hood. Replacing crushed flex duct with smooth rigid pipe is often the real fix for long dry times — before any part is changed.
What drives the cost
- Gas versus electric: gas adds igniter, valve and combustion work
- Whether the drum has to come out for belt, roller or bearing jobs
- Vented versus ventless condenser designs
- Parts availability for discontinued models
Safety first
- Clean the lint filter every load and the vent duct at least once a year; lint is the leading cause of dryer fires
- Unplug the dryer before removing panels — the terminal block stays live at 240 V even with the door open
- If you smell gas or the igniter will not light, stop and call a licensed gas technician
Dryer Repair by brand
Brand ownership changes which parts fit. These hubs cover the platform differences and the model-plate location for each brand.
Whirlpool DryerMaytag DryerKitchenAid DryerAmana DryerRoper DryerGE Appliances DryerSamsung DryerLG DryerFrigidaire DryerElectrolux DryerKenmore DryerBosch DryerSpeed Queen DryerFisher & Paykel DryerHaier Dryer
Common questions
Why does my dryer run but not heat?
On electric models the usual suspects are a tripped thermal fuse, a broken heating element or a failed high-limit thermostat. On gas models it is usually the igniter, flame sensor or gas valve coils. Test continuity before replacing anything.
How long should a dryer take?
A healthy dryer finishes a normal load in roughly 40 to 60 minutes. Two or more cycles for the same load usually means restricted airflow, a failing heating element or a moisture-sensor problem.
Can I replace a dryer belt myself?
Yes on most front-load dryers. The belt and idler pulley are accessible after removing the front panel or top, and the job takes about an hour with basic tools. Unplug the unit first.
Is it worth repairing a 12-year-old dryer?
A belt, fuse, roller or element replacement is usually worth it because the cabinet and drum last far longer than those consumables. A failed motor or a rusted-out drum on an old machine is usually a replacement decision.